And we must boldly admit that the first, and therefore most frightening, new exposure for vintage cidermaking -- as practiced by us and by our friends at West County Winery -- the first nationally published piece was in Martha Stewart Living, October 2001. Writer Thomas Christopher described the "subtle, often surprising aromas that recall vanilla, mango, pineapple, and even leather..." and asserted that "these ciders... must be appreciated in their own right. They are American classics."

Ms. Stewart herself did not visit here. Since then, allegedly, she has found one "good thing" too many. But we witnessed the high professionalism, stamina, and good humor of the writer and photographic team who worked on that story, and we remember that the Martha phenomenon has introduced many people to many vivid -- and perfectly affordable -- pleasures. Think what we may of the boss, her organization has given satisfaction. But back to cider.