Farnum Hill Kingston Black '03 reserve:
Golden, still, dry, redolent of muskmelon, orange peel, flowers, bittersweet apple, romance. Made from the temperamental Kingston Black apple, long treasured abroad as a single-variety cider fruit for its rare balance of tannin, sugar, and acid. Lovely on its own or as a flattering companion to food. Found at a few bold wine shops in New York, Massachusetts, and New Hampshire; poured at certain dazzling New York restaurants: Blue Hill, Craft, Gramercy Tavern. People engaging our Kingston Black come either to regard it as indispensably delicious or as too singular for true enjoyment -- the palate being a most personal part of our makeup. Kingston Black costs a lot, as cider goes, because we can't make much -- maybe 160 cases from the '02 harvest, up from 100 from the '01. So, trying Kingston Black is a gamble. Always happy to learn your reaction, should you like to write us.

(The word "Black" found in many old apple variety names, denotes dark, intensely red skin. Visiting English growers, seeing our Kingston Black trees roped with fruit, complain that this horticulturally maddening variety behaves better here than in the old country. But enough boasting.)